In December 2001, the Kiltmakers Association of Scotland (KMAS) was founded in Inverness, for the purpose of establishing quality standards and to uphold the traditional way of Kiltmaking. The College of Master Kilt Tailors has expanded on these, and as such you can know that your bespoke kilt will be made to these exacting standards.
KMAS standards are: Fabric - must be of recognised commercial quality with worsted type finish and a good selvedge. Amount of fabric - KMAS standards specify 8 yards or more. Pleats - there must be a minimum of 23 pleats, and they must be evenly measured showing the sett or line. The pleats must be hand stitched through the fell to approximately 1/3 the length of the kilt. Front Aprons - must be proportionately sized, central and fastening to the right. Sewing Thread - must be corespun and at least 50 weight. Sewing Accuracy - must be straight and hand stitched with at least 6 stitches every 2cm. Also, there can be no more than 2.5cm size difference between the seat and the bottom of the kilt. Canvas, Lining, Buckles - KMAS standards require a good quality canvas liner without starch, soap or synthetics. As well, the canvas depth is specified and specifications are set for the buckles and straps.
Thistlebrae Kilts adheres to the KMAS standards as well as the standards set out by The College of Master Kilt Tailors. These standards include:
100% hand stitched.
100% wool worsted tartan
Uniform, discreet stitching throughout.
Pleats - the average adult kilt aims to have between 27 and 34 pleats. Individually invisibly “lifted”.
Pleats to be between 7cm and 15cm deep
Belt and/or sporran loops, 1cm, hand sewn, matching the tartan selvedge
Waistband, 1-1.5cm deep.
Rise, as per the wearer’s requirements
Straps, 2 or 3, as per the wearer’s requirements
'Future-proofing' of the kilt with extra material incorporated into the inlays, and enough fabric hidden within the waistband to enable symmetry if the kilt is altered.